A popular twining vine with ornamental tubular flowers that are sweet scented at some varieties, e.g. Perfoliate Honeysuckle, Woodbine, Japanese Honeysuckle, Goldflame Honeysuckle.
The name Lonicera, commemorates Adam Lonitzer, 16th century German naturalist, the author of a well known herbal book. The genus Lonicera belongs to Caprifoliaceae family.
There are around 180 known Lonicera species growing in the wild in a northern hemisphere. The plants from the genus fall basically into two subgenera. The majority are arching shrubs classified in subgenus Lonicera. The other subgenus Caprifolium - Honeysuckle comprises vigorous vines whose stems twine spirally round a support. I would like to dedicate this article to the latter group.
There are around 20 species and several dozens cultivars of honeysuckles in cultivation around the world, of which around 20 taxons are cultivated in Poland. Honeysuckles have their leaves arranged in opposite pairs along the stems. In many species, the upper pair of leaves is joined together in a characteristic shape of a saucer. The foliage is most often green or green-blue, but can also be of a different colour e.g. Lonicera japonica 'Aureoreticulata' has green leaves with yellow veins, and Lonicera japonica 'Purpurea' has green leaves that turn red-purple in autumn and winter. The flowers are the indisputable attraction of honeysuckles - long tubular corollas can be white, yellow, crimson or violet and usually have two lips that curl outwards. What's more, they are fragrant in many species and cultivars. Honeysuckles start blooming in the 2nd - 4th year after planting. The flowers are produced in clusters of three, either arranged in pairs in leaf axils, or at the tops of the stems. Depending on the species, they appear between the end of May and October. Some honeysuckles also bear ornamental fruit - multi-seed berries with glossy skin that can vary in colour from bright orange through crimson to violet. They ripen from July to October and can serve as food for many birds, attracting them to your garden.
Lonicera heckrottii 'Goldflame' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera caprifolium 'Inga' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera x brownii 'Golden Trumpet' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera henryi - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera acuminata - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera japonica 'Purpurea' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Requirements.
Honeysuckles tolerate the majority of soils with the exception of very poor and drying soil, although they perform best and bloom more profusely in neutral or slightly alkaline, permeable, fertile, clayish soil that is rich in hummus and moist but not waterlogged. They look most impressive in full sun, but at the same time it makes some species and cultivars more subject to aphids attack. Therefore the most universal position for a honeysuckle is a partially shaded spot, sheltered from hot southern sun and strong winds.
Lonicera x brownii 'Fuchsioides' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Graham Thomas' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera japonica 'Aureoreticulata' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera x brownii 'Golden Trumpet' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera 'Blanche Sandman' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Application.
Honeysuckles are some of the most valuable climbing plants and can be planted in any garden, but they look particularly imposing in a large, naturalist garden where they are free to grow in an unrestrained manner. They achieve a height of 3 - 6 m, with 0.5 to 2 m of new growth every year. They are perfect for covering walls, arches, gates, trellises, pergolas, arbours or old tree trunks, provided they are equipped with wires or a wire mesh that will allow the plants to climb. When grown over a fence, they create an attractive screen against wind, dust and inquisitive eyes of passers-by, replacing a hedge. Evergreen Lonicera acuminata is particularly suitable for this purpose. Some honeysuckles (e.g. Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' and 'Hall's Prolific') can be used as groundcover for covering large areas, also in public green spaces. Fragrant honeysuckles, e.g. Perfoliate Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium), Woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum), Goldflame Honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrottii), Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and their cultivars, are best planted close to an entrance (a gate or a door), a window or a bank where you can admire their scent. Honeysuckles are a frequent element in traditional and rustic gardens. They can grow on their own or be combined with other climbers, such as a climbing rose or clematis (Clematis). It's best to use a vigorous clematis that requires hard pruning, e.g. a cultivar of the Viticella Group or any of the large-flowered late flowering clematis that are cut back just above the ground level in early spring. Otherwise, the pruning will be very difficult, since the clematis stems will intertwine with the honeysuckle stems.
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Graham Thomas' - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera acuminata - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera acuminata on a fence - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera acuminata on a tree - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Culture.
Most honeysuckles should be light pruned, only when need arises. They look at their best and produce best flowers when left to grow freely. However, if you want your plant to be really imposing, you should devote the first 1 - 3 years to establishing and forming it. After planting, cut all the stems at the 1/3 of the height to promote strong branching at the base. Then, choose 3 - 4 strongest shoots of the newly grown and remove all the rest. In the next years the honeysuckles that flower on old wood, like Perfoliate Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) or Lonicera x tellmanniana should be pruned very lightly, just to remove weak, dead or obstructing stems. The honeysuckles that bloom on new wood, such as Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonia) and its cultivars or Goldflame Honeysuckle (Lonicera x heckrottii), can be pruned hard in early spring without the fear of losing flower crop. After several years, the base of the plant may start getting bare, the leaves and flowers only appearing at the upper part of the plant. To counteract this, carry out a rejuvenating pruning every 5 - 6 years. Spread the task over two years, each year cutting out the half of the oldest stems at the base of the plant.
Lonicera japonica 'Halliana' - after spring pruning - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' - after spring pruning - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera x heckrottii 'American Beauty' - after spring pruning - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Honeysuckles benefit from abundant watering and fertilization. When you use a slow-release fertilizer, for instance Osmocote 5 - 6 M, one fertilization a year is sufficient, best done at the end of April. Use 20 - 30 g per plant (put 2 - 3 teaspoonfuls into 3 - 5 holes, each 5 cm deep).
Lonicera japonica 'Aureoreticulata' - leaves - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Graham Thomas' - leaves - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera acuminata - leaves - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera japonica 'Purpurea' - leaves - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Serotina' - fruits - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera henryi - fruits - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera acuminata - fruits - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera caprifolium 'Inga' - fruits - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera x brownii 'Dropmore Scarlet' - fruits - photo Sz. Marczynski |
|
Diseases and Pests. Aphids are the most troublesome pest of honeysuckles. They appear at the top of the plant in May, just before the flowering. New shoots, leaves and flower buds are the main target of aphids,. Affected parts curl up, turn yellow, get deformed, stunted and covered with sticky honeydew. Perfoliate Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium), Woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum), Tellmann Honeysuckle (Lonicera x tellmanniana) and Brown’s Honeysuckle (Lonicera x brownii) are particularly vulnerable to aphids attack, especially in a dry or sunny position. On the other hand, Henry’s Honeysuckle (Lonicera henryi), Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera acuminate are least susceptible to be attacked by aphids. To fight the pest off, spray the plant with a pesticide immediately after the first aphids have appeared.
Powdery mildew is the most dangerous honeysuckle disease. It causes the appearance of powdery white layer on the upper surface of leaves. With time, reddish or brownish stains appear and the leaves curl up, wither and drop. The susceptibility to the disease varies considerably among species and even cultivars. Perfoliate Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium), is particularly vulnerable, but its cultivar 'Inga' is quite resistant and suffers minor damage.
Lonicera caprifolium 'Inga' - cultivar party resistant to powder mildew - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Also, Lonicera acuminata, Henry’s Honeysuckle (Lonicera henryi) and most cultivars of Woodbine (Lonicera periclymenum), including 'Graham Thomas' and 'Serotina', and of Lonicera japonica (with the exception of 'Aureoreticulata') are quite tolerant of the disease. To fight the powdery mildew, spray the plant with one of the recommended fungicides. Repeat spraying 2 - 3 times every 10 days, each time with a different fungicide.
Species and cultivars.
|
Lonicera periclymenum 'Chojnów' - leaves - photo Sz. Marczynski |
Lonicera periclymenum 'Chojnów' - fruits - photo Sz. Marczynski |